FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

• Absolutely! Our site is SSL certified. Once you have completed your shopping and are ready to Checkout, your transaction will be finalized on our secure webpage and go through Stripe’s very secure payment application.

• You can order any quantity; we will never make you have a minimum order requirement! Our goal is to make shopping for your high-quality hardware easy and efficient, not to make you spend a huge amount of money.

• We do not have pickup unfortunately; all orders are shipped from our warehouse directly to you. If you have any special accommodations, you need made you can contact our customer service team and we can see what we can do to help you with whatever situation may arise.

• We do not offer any special pricing for large orders, but we do have distributor pricing available with our mother company Imperial USA. You can contact them at 1.800.256.7377 or visit their website impusa.com to order bulk hardware and get an awesome discount.

• Taxes and shipping are not included in the price that you see on the product page. You can see your applicable tax and shipping costs when you are almost complete during checkout or while you are in your shopping cart.

• Yes, we have many more specified products that are not commonly used unavailable on our website but that you can still order. You can call or email us with your request (manufacturer name, item and model # and/or part number) and we will provide you with a quotation as soon as we receive it. If you are looking for these less-common specialty items in bulk, you can call our mother company at 1.800.256.7377 or visit their website impusa.com to order bulk hardware and get an awesome discount! Please continue to visit us regularly though because we are constantly trying to add new products and content to keep you informed and looking at the best hardware on the market.

• Credits are returned to the credit card that was used on the original order within 30 working days. Items will be returned to our warehouse and then, once the items have been received, a refund will be issued. You should then receive an email saying that your card has been refunded, and from there if you need a receipt for you refund we can make one for you.

• Yes, we manufacture all our offered products except for the Omnia hardware lines. We do carry both, and are always looking at new lines to improve and expand the options of hardware that we have to offer for you.

The following three certifications that we offer for our door hardware are as follows. These certifications are seen as the standards to be kept for exceptional, high-quality hardware and we are happy to say that most of our hardware has at least one of these certifications. You can find if a product has one or more of these by checking out it’s product details listed on the bottom of the product page.

• ADA stands for ADA (American Disabilities Act) Compliant Door Hardware. This is also referred to often as handicap compliant or handicap accessible hardware.
• BHMA stands for Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association
• ANSI stands for American National Standards Institute

• The difference between Commercial and Residential door hardware comes down to grade or quality. Rarely would you put a residential piece of hardware on a commercial application. For example, if you had a residential door knob that you would use on a bathroom door and placed it in a public restroom, it would barely last a month if even that. The usage of the door determines what grade you will need for your hardware.

The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) designates three levels. Grade 1 is the highest and is the most heavy-duty of the three grades. Grade 2 offers mid-level security, while Grade 3 provides basic security (considered residential hardware).

For example, door closers are rated by opening/closing force “Size”. The size ratings are from #1 to #6, with size #1 the weakest strength and Size #6 the strongest.

• Size #1 = 2 pounds of closing force, minimum
• Size #2 = 3 pounds of closing force, minimum
• Size #3 = 5 pounds of closing force, minimum
• Size #4 = 8 pounds of closing force, minimum
• Size #5 = 11 pounds of closing force, minimum
• Size #6 = 14 pounds of closing force, minimum

• UL listed means that whatever hardware or item that you have selected is fire rated, or able to withstand being in flames for an extended period of time. This makes it sought after for commercial buildings that require fire certifications or specifications, such as schools, hospitals, public buildings, and many more. For a link on more specific guidelines you can check out UL.com.

It’s hard to determine which hinge is best for your application. Normally, it is a complex combination of your purpose for the hinge, how heavy the door traffic is for that specific entrance, and what the door is made of. All of these factors effect how the hinge needs to perform and the durability of its material.

• The basic, standard residential door hinge is what is known as a plain bearing hinge. It is simply 2 halves of metal with a pin that joins the halves. It is categorized by the type of metal it is made from (steel, stainless steel, or brass), the size of the hinge, and the style of corner the hinge has. When replacing an existing door hinge finding the size is as simple as taking a quick measurement. With very few exceptions, all standard door hinges are squares and sized in 1/2″. As a general rule, you will want to use 1 hinge per every 30 inches of door or fraction thereof. Following this rule, doors up to 60 inches need 2 hinges, doors from 60-90 inches need 3 hinges, and door over 90 inches need 3 hinges. Any door that is larger than 120 inches should consider using a continuous hinge or some additional form of support to prevent sagging or general door malfunction.
• The most commonly used metal for door hinges is good old steel. Strong, inexpensive and easy to work with, steel hinges look great and work well in most standard applications for years. Stainless steel is one step up because of its resistance to rusting. Stainless Steel hinges are often used on doors that will potentially be exposed to moisture and corrosion (or simply because you prefer this material’s extra-long life span.) Solid brass hinges on the other hand never rust and are one of the best base metals to plate for the highest quality appearance. The finish on high quality brass hinges will last for many additional years over a steel plated hinges. They are also significantly higher priced than steel options, so you really get what you pay for.
• The standard plain bearing hinges have no ball bearings. Ball bearing hinges have two ball bearings in the knuckles of the hinges. In general, the ball bearing hinges are higher quality and prevent squeaking of the hinges better than the plain bearing hinges, making them the most recommended for residential doors. Spring hinges, also known as self-closing hinges and adjustable hinges, are now required in many states to install on the door leading into your garage. The adjustable tension spring in the hinge automatically closes the door helping to minimize any harmful gas fumes from getting into your home.

• The most common reason that people purchase a pivot is to replace an already existing pivot or to replace a malfunctioning pivot. The hardware is completely concealed except for the floor plate, and is usually used on extra heavy or high-traffic doors due to its ability to carry more weight than other hinges. They support more weight because it gets it support from the bottom arm of the pivot and the floor instead of from the door frame. This reduces the stress on the frame and prevents the door and frame from sagging. This kind of hinge is most often used on store front doors.

• Center Hung Pivots are non-handed, and most are double acting–the door can open in either direction. Center Hung Pivot Hinges allow for unique door configurations since this type of hinge can be mounted on the edge of the door but also closer to the center.

Each name of the pivot alludes to the replacement or company’s pivots in which is replaces, for example the Kawneer Offset Pivot replaces a Kawneer brand offset pivot.

• Offset pivots are recommended for any door where appearance is an important consideration on a heavy, high-traffic door. Useful for any very heavy door, these pivots provide more support than a standard butt hinge and are less likely to become loose or need adjustments over time. They also prevent any sagging due to the lack of tension and friction.
• Intermediate Pivots are like offset pivots, but are required to give extra support to doors that are above 83 inches in height. These pivots aid offset pivots to help insure that proper alignment for your door is kept throughout its usage. Although they cannot be center hung, they provide additional support to keep the middle part of the door in line with the offset pivots.

• Door sag is very commonly seen in older doors, or heavy doors with hinges that are not equipped to bear its weight or usage. Normally you can replace a hinge to correct minor sagging, or upgrade your type of hinge to accommodate a heavier or high-traffic door.

• A Continuous Hinge consists of two full-height, geared leafs (or the flat extruding part of the hinge). Each leaf rotates evenly from top to bottom, riding on the hinge spine’s bearings. These leafs are held together by a cap at the top and bottom of the hinge called a channel cap. This type of hinge supports a heavy door or any other type of heavy vertical object. Unlike butt or spring hinges, continuous hinges do not have a hinge pin, making it vandal-resistant and highly-secure. It is not like a piano hinge either, which has 50% of each knuckle cut away, and depends on a thin wire to hold each hinge leaf together.

• There are 3 styles of hinge corners: square, ¼”-inch radius, and 5/8”-inch radius hinges. To decide what radius (rounded corner) hinge you have, you can use a coin to measure from the beginning of the curve to where the corner of the hinge would be if it were a square corner. Yes, a coin. A 5/8”-inch radius hinge will fit the rounded edge of a quarter, while a ¼”-inch radius hinge will fit the rounded edge of a dime.
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• Our hinges are sold individually so that we can give you optimized customization options.
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• Entry hardware provides security for exterior doors. It has a key entry on one side of the lock set and on the other a push button. For this function, pushing the button creates a privacy function, and turning the thumb piece creates a storeroom function.

• Privacy hardware has push button locking from its interior. the lock can be opened by rotating the interior lever or knob. This function safety unlocks for emergencies.

• Passage hardware function is for interior door applications, and has both levers/knobs freely open and do not lock.

• Storeroom function lock sets feature an outside lever or knob that is always locked. Any time this lock set is entered through a key must be used to open the door. This storeroom function is used for secured areas most often.

• Classroom functions have an exterior lever that is locked or unlocked by a key. The interior lever always allows you to exit, and gets its name from its most common usage (which is educational classrooms.)

• Exit function lock sets have a blank plate on outside, while the interior lever is always free and unlocked.

• Dummy hardware can be more of a decorative lever/knob to prevent double doors with only one function lock set from looking strange. Also considered a door trim, dummy function levers and knobs have no latch and only protrude from one side of the door.

• Double Cylinder lock set functions uses a key to lock or unlock the door handle on both the interior and exterior side. This functions sides are independent of each other.

• A single-cylinder deadbolt needs a key to unlock it from the outside, but can be unlocked with a button or turn on the inside. This allows for quick exiting in case of an emergency. A double cylinder deadbolt requires a key for both the inside and outside of the lock.

• There is an instruction template in the box that comes with your lockset upon purchase. The lockset typically comes put together, and all that is required otherwise attaching the deadlatch (which clicks right on) and installing it!

• The security and use of your door you need determines what deadbolt you need. There are Grade 1 , 2, and 3 deadbolts. For commercial or very heavily used doors, we recommend a Grade 1 deadbolt which will provide you with the longest lasting security. Grade 2 will also work but is not as strong, and Grade 3 deadbolts are perfect for residential purposes, such as on a door leading to your garage or a entrance door.

• A latchset fastens a door, gate or window in position but does not provide security, acting similarly to a dummy function lock set. On the other hand, a lock set prevents unwanted visitors from getting into your door entrance without a key.

• A backset is the measurement for your lockset part that goes from the edge of door to the center of the bore hole (or the lock body that you are replacing.) Most backsets come in either a 2-3/8″-inch or 2-3/4″-inch size.

• A door closer is a spring-loaded hydraulic device that closes a door automatically. There are three different hanging styles of closers; top jamb mounting (push side), parallel mounting (push side), and regular (pull side) mounting.

• We have something even better! We do not have a husky, but we have an improved, exact hole by hole replacement! This is one of our bestselling concealed door closers since they are no longer made and highly sought after. The exact replacement, the TC7700 overhead concealed closer is suitable for areas of medium to high traffic volume, and incorporates full hydraulic and spring power control. The closer will consist of a steel cam, rollers and springs along with heavy-duty ball bearings at the spindle, all housed in a compact reinforced wall cast iron body.

• When you need to replace an existing door closer, the easiest way is to match the bolt hole pattern to a new closer. This will allow you to install your new closer in the same place as the old one. There are 3 basic measurements:

• Horizontal Holes: The width between the centers of the mount holes horizontally.
• Vertical Holes: The width between the centers of the mount holes vertically.
• Body Width: The width of the closer itself (this is not critical, but is helpful when determining space around the body for door placement).

• Push bar exit devices come in two styles: a crash bar and rim panic style. These exit devices are operated by depressing anywhere on the bar or touch pad to unlock the door. Crash bar style panic hardware is used in heavy traffic areas for this feature because it only requires someone pushing into it to unlock the latch and open the door. Rim panic devices are surfaced mounted to the door’s exterior where the latch protrudes from the device rather than the edge of the door.

• A vertical rod panic device has rods that connect the device to the top and bottom latches of the door. These doors strikes are mounted on the top of the door frame and the floor, allowing for two latch points and added security. It also allows for one door to be propped open while another door has a secured lock function. When a set of double doors has both a vertical rod exit device and a rim panic device, the rim strike is mounted to the “inactive” side of the doors. The inactive side is then secured by a vertical rod exit device, which latches at the top of the door frame and into the threshold.

• Yes, we have our TC901 Series Low Profile Mini Door Closer which is made specifically for uses in residential spaces. It’s grade 3 rating and smaller size is perfect for doors that are frequently used and can be suitable for doors up to 150-lbs.
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When installing your cabinet knobs or pulls to your home storage, it is standard for them to be centered on the door stile (or frame piece) horizontally. This typically ranges from about two to four inches from the bottom/top edge of the door (depending on if it is a top or bottom cabinet.)

• For knobs it is common to have the knob on bottom cabinetry centered on the stile and two and a half inches from the top of the cabinet, while the upper cabinets have the same placement but two and a half inches from the bottom of the door. This accommodates someone’s height when standing or, for example, cooking in your kitchen and reaching for something in your cabinetry.
• For pulls it is the same idea, but since there are two holes instead of one the hole closest should be 2 ½”-inches from the edge. Now for the exceptions you were probably actually looking for. Tall lower cabinets with a center rail, such as pantry/broom closets, knobs and pulls should be centered horizontally on the door stile and vertically on the middle of the center rail. On tall upper cabinets with a center rail such as tall linen cabinets, knobs and pulls should be centered horizontally on the stile and 2-1/2” up from the bottom of the door. For drawers in which you are using cabinet hardware, knob and pull holes should be centered horizontally and vertically in the middle of the 5-piece or slab drawer front. Some people like to install 2 knobs or pulls on very wide drawer fronts that will be filled with heavy items, but people tend to use only one of the pulls/knobs when opening the drawer, so using only one and centering it is typically recommended.

• There are four different kinds of mounting for your cabinet hardware. The following four methods will work, but we often recommend using thru bolt mounting or surface mounted concealed mounting. Our featured cabinet hardware uses thru-bolt mounting and comes with screws included.

• Thru-bolt mounting is when a piece of cabinet hardware is directly attached to the door with a bolt(s) that go all the way through your cabinets door. The advantage of thru-bolt mounting is it provides added strength and permanence to the positioning of your hardware due to the added door thickness supporting your hardware.
• Back to back mounting for your cabinet hardware consists of two door pulls that are hooked together, each pulling the opposite into the door (hence the name back to back.) A stud or bolt goes through the door and connects the two door pulls together at each mounting point on the handles, and they screw onto the thread from each side. Back to back mounting is often used for glass shower door pulls and entry door pulls.
• Concealed surface mounting is when mounting studs are threaded into the door and your cabinet hardware is installed that way. The pull slides onto the mounting studs where a set screw locks it in place. The main advantage of concealed surface mounting over thru-bolt is that the bolt on the opposite side of the cabinet door is not visible, improving the appearance. A great application of this would be if you want to install thru-bolt mounted cabinet hardware, but your cabinet door doesn’t have enough room to tighten the mounting bolts to make this possible.
• Visible surface mounting has the door pull screwed directly to the surface of your cabinet door. Surface mounted pulls are often used on lightweight doors such as gates. A benefit to using surface mounting over thru-bolt mounting or back-to-back mounting is that it provides a simple installation (you just have to screw it onto the door) as well as quick and painless removal. A negative to this method though is that it is the least secure mounting of all four methods and does not take well to high-traffic usage.

• We offer flush bolts and surface bolts to protect your doors from the unknown. The main difference between a flush bolt and a surface bolt is that one sits in an inset making the bolt flush with the door (hence the name) and the other lays on top of the doors surface. As a result, flush bolts are perfect for sliding doors and pocket doors that have little to no clearance. Surface Bolts are simply secured with screws to the door and slide the bolt into the strike, also giving them their very obvious name. Since Surface Bolts are just screwed into the door, they are feature an easy installation with minimal damage to the door itself. These bolts are perfect when installed on windows or gates. And just like Flush Bolts, surface bolts can be mounted up higher to childproof any door.